Minnesota's German Christmas traditions

Christmas Market at Germany's Annaberg-Buchholz in the Erzgebirge.

Longing for Light: Ore Mountain miners influence the world
Christmas traditions throughout Minnesota, the U.S. and even the world can be traced back to the woodcarving of miners in need of more income near the border of Germany and Czechoslovakia in the 1800s.

They, in particular, craved and treasured light during the cold, dark season of winter and brought more of it to their homes with wooden candle arches (Schwiboggen), carved miners and angels (who represented their wives), elaborate chandeliers, and grand windmill-topped pyramids that spin from the heat of candles and lights.

Schwiboggen

Other beloved crafts: delicately curled boughs on wooden pine trees (Spanbäume), smoking Santas and figurines that puff curling wisps of incense, and the well-known Nutcrackers, a wink-wink, nudge-nudge way of mocking the stern mining officials from the Erzgebirge (also known as the Ore Mountains).

You can read my whole feature on Christmas traditions from the Erzgebirge in the Nov. 27 Star Tribune travel section. 

Find hand-crafted German ornaments in Minnesota

While it's a dream trip to see these crafters and the area that inspires them, it's also enchanting to find these Christmas crafts closer to home.

The two best places to find "Echte Erzgebirge" or "Authentic Ore Mountains" ornaments? Käthe Wohlfahrt store in Stillwater and several shops in New Ulm.

Stillwater features most famous Christmas store
The Käthe Wohlfahrt store is one of those mandatory stops in Rothenburg, which ranks as one of Germany's most picturesque (and touristy) medieval towns. Stillwater, Minnesota, claims a rare U.S. branch of this Christmas store.

It complements an already beguiling and historic downtown with its unique blend of boutiques.

Heirloom ornament sets.

Christmas reigns in New Ulm 
In New Ulm, several stores sell one of the greatest wedding gifts I've seen: heirloom sets of holiday ornaments. What a great idea and nice twist on the usual sets of pans and home decor brides and grooms put on wish lists.

Try these stores for all things Christmas:

Lambrecht's Gifts, 119 N. Minnesota St., is an efficient one-stop shop for unique women's wear and accessories, home decor and baby gifts with two stories and multiple rooms that make it fun to explore. You'll find a Christmas village and more than one upstairs room filled year-round with German ornaments from elegant to playful.

Guten Tag Haus, 127 N. Minnesota St., has the nicest display of Erzgebirge Christmas crafts such as nutcrackers, the smoking Santas, candle arches and pyramids. They also have colorful displays of German blown-glass ornaments that glitter and catch the light, along with German and Czech cut-glass vases and bowls. If you have Norwegians and Irish in the family, too, you can find gifts for them as well--just not as many. Germans rule New Ulm.

Domeier's German Store, 1020 S. Minnesota St., sits along a residential stretch rather than downtown so you have to go looking for it. They pipe in the oom-pah-pah music and cram the store with ornaments, clocks and sweets galore. It's not the best choice if you have kids bundled in bulky winter gear, but it's fun in a folksy way. Don't miss looking up at the ceiling that's covered in postcards.

Find the best views of Minnesota's fall colors

The maple leaves are starting to flame into shades of red and gold, making it a great time to plan fall drives. Whether you seek a daytrip or a weekend, here are some of my favorite fall destinations in Minnesota. Don't forget to check the Department of Natural Resources fall color report for the best timing.



Aim high for a fall hike:
Lutsen Mountains

While colors along the North Shore can be pretty, they get more vibrant as you head inland. Best view we've ever seen? Standing on Moose Mountain, facing a brilliant Magic Mountain. The experience is escalated by the ride there. The ski resort's mountain tram glides across the burbling Poplar River before heading up into the steep Sawtooth Mountains. It was enough to give a three-year-old the willies one year.

There's the Summit Chalet at the top where you can warm up with a light meal and hot coffee or cocoa while facing the sapphire blue expanse of Lake Superior. There's a great loop hike around Moose Mountain. Back at the resort, the alpine slide offers another thrill. Like the mountain tram, it's open Thursdays through Sundays until Oct. 24.  If you love golf, splurge on a round at nearby Superior National, one of the state's premier courses. Its advantage: elevation, the rugged Poplar River, and Superior scenery.

Phelps Mill near Fergus Falls.

There are lots of inland forest roads throughout Cook County. Check with location attractions for designated fall color routes and make sure you've got a good Minnesota atlas, as well. GPS is nice, but we swear by DeLorme maps first and foremost.


Prairie Pothole country:  
Otter Trail Scenic Byway
 
If you want to ditch the leaf-peeper crowds and enjoy gently rolling roads, this 150-mile route rolls through the surprisingly beautiful prairie pothole country. The best introduction to this unique western Minnesota terrain can be found at the Prairie Wetlands Learning Center on the outskirts of Fergus Falls. Created through the National Wildlife Refuge service, it explains the importance of these lakes to the thousands of birds that flock to this section of Minnesota and into the Dakotas.

Near Glendalough State Park

One of the prettiest scenes in the area has always been the 1889 Phelps Mill, a pretty red-and-white structure reflected in its own mill pond. You can walk right in to view displays and a film on the area's wheat boom.

Keep heading north for a sweeping view of fall color at Maplewood State Park. Atop its Halloway Hill Trail, the view encompasses hillsides of sumac and hardwoods, South Arm Lake, Lake Lida and Pelican Rapids.


In the spirit of Oktoberfest: New Ulm 

Fall is an ideal time to climb up to "Hermann the German," a monument high above New Ulm where the view  encompasses the Minnesota River Valley Scenic Byway. (You'll have to use your fall color imagination with the photo on the left, taken in the spring.)

New Ulm boasts several historic bed and breakfasts, tasty restaurants and the beloved Schell's Brewery. The brewery, Schell mansion and historic gardens (pictured below) naturally complement autumn with tours and tastings. Even better: It celebrates its 150th anniversary this year--a huge accomplishment for a small company that survived the U.S. Dakota war, Prohibition and competition of corporate breweries. It's something to think about while hollering "Prost!" at Oktoberfest the first two weekends in October. It's certainly cheaper (and less crowded) than a trip to Munich, and you can get your fill of lederhosen and oom-pah-pah music.

Even without the festival, the town's German heritage  is beautifully reflected in its shops, architecture and food. The chamber rents well-done and free walking tour podcasts of its historic downtown. Leave time to explore its curvy, wooded Minnesota River byway and detour into the countryside to sample wines at Morgan Creek Vineyard. It will be livelier than usual on Oct. 2, when visitors come from across the state to squish grapes through their toes at the Cambria Grape stomp.

For more fall festivals and scenic drives, check out www.exploreminnesota.com.

Family travel on a budget? Try a camping workshop

Nine-Mile Lake in Superior National Forest.

If families are looking for the best vacation deal around, the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources, teaming up with REI, has been offering I Can Camp! workshops around the state this summer. The new program teaches families everything they need to know for only $55--that's with equipment provided. It's one of the best investments you can make in affordable vacations. Even better: you're teaching kids an appreciation for the outdoors and letting all of you unplug from the daily hubbub.

If teens aren't sold on the idea, remind them camping may be their best bet for frugal vacations during cash-strapped post-grad years. They can acquire cheap camping supplies at garage sales, Goodwill or invest in a few good pieces. There's even a new tent you literally throw into the air and watch it pop up and assemble itself. Seriously. We saw a demo at a neighbor's house last night. As someone who's tried to pitch a tent in the dark (not by choice), I can vouch that this is an amazing leap forward. Kudos to the creator.

Learn camping basics
The guidance of a camping expert can do wonders. Knowing the proper way to put a tarp under the tent, for example, can make all the difference in staying dry if it rains. And learning how to make a good fire will prevent frustration, conserve firewood and speed up campfire dinners and treats.

There are four I Can Camp! workshops left on Aug. 19 and 20.  Keep the DNR site handy next spring if those dates don't work out.

Picking a state park

My recommendation among remaining workshops: Flandrau State Park in New Ulm. The man-made, sand-bottomed pool is marvelous. Plus you have vintage WPA buildings at the park and charming New Ulm nearby. You can't ask for a better place than this German community to pick up tasty sausages to grill and locally brewed beer or root beer. Lake Carlos near Alexandria is another solid choice for campsites near its nice clear lake and sandy beach.

Flandrau State Park's man-made
beach the day before it opened.

Glendalough State Park sits in Minnesota's glacial lakes area near Fergus Falls. Wild turkeys and deer are easy to spot in this uncrowded park. Lake Maria State Park is the closest to the Twin Cities, but is more rustic.

More camping resources

If you're looking for more tips on beginning camping, check out a feature I wrote for  Suite 101 about learning to camp and participating in the annual National Wildlife Federation's Great American Backyard Campout.

Glendalough State Park

Also head to the library or bookstore for nature guides and Lynn Brunelle’s Camp Out! book (Workman Publishing, 2007). It's our favorite resource with a little of everything: advice on setting up camp, tying knots, telling ghost stories, playing night games, star gazing and creative cooking. It even has a guide for animal tracks and figuring out who pooped on the trail.   

Cooking on a Stick by Linda White (Gibbs Smith, 2000) is more narrowly focused but fun for its kid-focused campfire recipe. Snail on a stick anyone? (It's bread--don't panic.)

For more family fun, read on to other features, including free Jelly Belly tours in Wisconsin or Devil's Lake State Park and train rides near Wisconsin Dells.